Penmaenbach Grade 2- Scramble
by the bald scrambler
Published By: Daniel Weadley. Date: 18th November 2024. Filed at: Other Snowdonia Scrambles. Disclosure: I earn commission from purchases made via links, read more. Disclaimer: Scrambling is a dangerous sport and this page doesn’t contain step-by-step instructions – read disclaimer. Comments are open.
The scramble wasn’t included in the original Scrambles in Snowdonia guidebook but was added to the 2017 version and several of my YouTube followers asked me to try this route so in November 2024, I did it twice in one morning.
This grade 2 route has a very short approach and I didn’t have any issue parking in the nearby village.
I found this route easy to find, the line was obvious and the walk back to the car took no more than 20 minutes.
I’ve heard that the rock can be slippy when wet but it was fairly dry when I attempted it and I didn’t have any issues, although I avoided the crux on my first ascent of this line (I did it the second time).
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My Favourite Scrambling Book
Parking and Approach
There was ample parking in the village of Dwygyfylchi when I visited.
I parked near the cemetery at this What3Words Location: https://what3words.com/bluffing.potato.tripled
I walked down the road and through and out the back of the caravan site. In Nov 2024, there weren’t any access issues with the caravan site – you can let others know in the comment section if this changes.
This is the starting point of the scramble: https://what3words.com/typist.groom.punctuate
The entire walk in, from the car to the foot of the arete took me 10 minutes.
Map
Here’s a map and downloadable GPX coordinates for the entire route, starting at the public road outside the caravan site.
Start of the Scramble
The scramble started with a bang and after only a few steps, I had my hands on the rock.
The lower section felt like upper grade 1/lower grade 2 terrain, and there were plenty of holds to choose from. Most were solid, with only a few loose ones here and there.
There was a steep drop to the left side of the arete so if you like Crib Goch or similar routes, you’ll probably enjoy this scramble:
Me on the lower section of Penmaenbach Arete
Scrambling on Penmaenbach Arete
The lower section of the Arete
My Favourite Scrambling Footwear:
The Mid Section
In this section, the terrain eases slightly with plenty of holds and a few gorse shrubs to avoid.
I found the best line was closest to the edge of the arete and I stepped over to the right only occasionally.
There were a couple of flat grassy areas so it wasn’t steep scrambling all the way up:Â
The mid section of the route
There are several grassy ledges on this route so it’s not consistent scrambling all the way
The Crux of the Route
The crux of the route is on the left side of the arete, the holds slope away from the rock with a steep drop to the left.
The crux is only a short section at roughly grade 2 but may feel harder and is treacherous when damp.
I avoided the crux on my first ascent by trending rightwards for 10 metres and ascending from the right side of the arete.
The crux is in front of me here
Me looking up at the crux – note the sloping holds
Me avoiding the crux by taking a line starting 10m to the right
These Are Perfect for General Hiking:
The Top of the Route and the Descent
The top of the route is very scrappy with an even mix of scrambling at grade 1, loose scree and gorse bushes.
The line ends at the summit but one can trend rightwards before this and take a shortcut to a path that leads back to the caravan park via the woods.Â
Note: This path is a little hard to find initially (lots of gorse around!) but once on it, I found it easy to follow. The path is well-marked on the AllTrails app and it took me less than 20 minutes to get back to the car.
The final section of the route. The descent path is located top, right.
What I Think of This Scramble
The first half of the scramble has some decent rock and a good dollop of exposure on the left side and this is where the best scrambling is found.
The upper section lets the route down but overall, I rate this a 2-star route (out of 3) and I reckon it’s a solid grade 2.
Given the short no-effort approach and easy walk-off, I think this is an excellent scramble for those in the area or with limited time.
Route Profile
Grade: Graded as a 1+ in the Scrambles in Snowdonia book but on the UKC website and also in my opinion, it’s closer to a low grade 2.
Suitability for beginners: A good introduction to grade 2 scrambling (when dry).
Navigation: Easy to locate the start but the descent path was a little harder to find.
Dangers: As expected from a low grade 2 route with lots of exposure on the arete and a few loose holds here and there. The rock may be more slippery in the wet and the crux has sloping holds.
Time: I did it twice in one morning and that included filming. Maybe between 1 hr (fast) and 1.5hrs (slow) car-to-car.
Popularity: This route is becoming more popular due to the easy access.
Fun rating: 7.5/10 for me.
My likes: Easy approach, good rock on the lower section, blocky holds, easy walk off and plenty of exposure.
My dislikes: A short route that’s over too quickly, scrappy upper section with gorse and scree.
Nearby scrambles: I’m not aware of any other scrambles in this area.
About Daniel Weadley
This route up Penmaenbach Arete was created by Daniel Weadley, aka The Bald Scrambler.
From walking along beaches and kayaking down rivers to making his way up mountains and even jumping out of planes, Daniel has a love of the outdoors but scrambling is his real passion.
Daniel Weadley aka The Bald Scrambler
I Never Go Out Without a Lightweight Packable Jacket:
2 Comments
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Have fun, keep safe. Hopefully I’ll see you on the mountains one day
By The Bald Scrambler
hey Daniel, if youre ever doing this again and dont mind the company let me know thanks
Great to see a description of the route.
I always thought it looked a good route but have never tried it, even though I live less than 30 mins away!
Many thanks