Milestone Gully Approach Scramble

Published By: Daniel Woodley. Updated: 17th October 2023. Filed at: Glyderau Scrambles. Disclosure: I may earn a commission from purchases made via links. Disclaimer: Scrambling is a dangerous sport, this route description does not provide step-by-step instructions. Read Disclaimer.

Milestone Gully Approach is an excellent alternative start to the North Ridge of Tryfan, graded by some at 1+ and others around a 2.

I’ve found that the gully is often wet with plenty of moss and lichen to navigate but also lots of polished holds, especially on the spicy moves, of which there are a few.

I’ve never seen the gully quiet; the milestone area is popular with climbers who use this gully as a descent but for scramblers, the interest is in the ascent.

Watch my video of this scramble here:

Below you’ll find a map, route description, photos and other helpful information for this popular scramble.

This isn’t a step-by-step guide but a detailed overview of the scramble as I’ve experienced it on the many times I’ve been up there.

Please read my disclaimer as scrambling is a dangerous sport and there are plenty of wet, slimy, slippery and steep sections on this route!

Map For Milestone Gully Approach

I’ve created a map showing the route to the gully, up it and the options at the top:

Imagery © 2023 Google, Airbus, Bluesky, Infoterra, COWI, Cnes/Airbus, Getmapping PLC, Landset, Maxar Technologies

Despite being a short scramble at around 50m long with a height gain of just 90m, there are three distinct sections:

1. Approach.
2. The scramble.
3. Continuation.

1) Approach

Milestone Gully can be approached from the A5 either following the path next to the stone wall and going over the steps or via a direct line from the A5 car parks.

Check out the map below:

Imagery © 2023 Google, Airbus, Bluesky, Infoterra, COWI, Cnes/Airbus, Getmapping PLC, Landset, Maxar Technologies

Section 2) The Scramble

The scramble is fairly short at around 50m long with a height gain of 90m, but there are some interesting moves. The first of which is described by Steve Ashton in his book, as the Baffling Step – it’s an unassuming ledge that can be easily avoided.

Beyond the step is the gully proper, which takes a line to the left and starts with a series of steep steps and moves at around grade 1+. The gully is wet in the centre but dry holds can be found either side, at least in the lower section.

Further up, there’s more moss and it’s wetter but not quite as steep, it’s more of a steep staircase.

I’ve never seen the gully bone dry so extra care is required on a few moves. While there’s lots of moss and lichen, I’ve always found the polished rocks easy to find and secure, loose rocks have never been an issue for me in this gully, it’s always been solid.

This photo shows the terrain at the upper end of the gully – steep, wet, mossy. Extra care is needed here.

This photo was taken at the lower section of the gully – there’s less moss and the rocks typically drier and blockier but the terrain is steeper.

Section 3) Continuation

At the top of the gully, there’s a choice to make:

• Take the path straight ahead towards the boulder field on the lower section of the North Ridge.
• Take the grade 1 scrambling line onto the mid-section of the North Ridge.
• Try the Milestone Continuation grade 3 scramble.
• Descend the gully.

Imagery © 2023 Google, Airbus, Bluesky, Infoterra, COWI, Cnes/Airbus, Getmapping PLC, Landset, Maxar Technologies