Section 1

I followed the watercourse to the right of Clogwyn y Grochan (grassy, slippery but doable), crossing over the right side of the stream to a series of short ribs with the gushing stream over my left shoulder.

Above these ribs are two obvious and intimidating pinnacles – I skirted to the left and zigzagged up to the crest just behind the first pinnacle – https://what3words.com/cabbage.triathlon.vibes

The crest of the ridge was rocky with some light vegetation but I had no issues scrambling along it to the front of the imposing second pinnacle which I took to the left via a very greasy and slippery box bay described as a “sentry box” in the guidebook.

This greasy box bay was sloping with a steep drop behind me – I suggest bringing a rope for this short unforgiving section, which might be easier in dry conditions.

I climbed out of the rear of the box bay to see the third and final wall in this section come into view and it was hopelessly steep. The stream to my left is now a waterfall and the wall would need rope.

I took a crafty line descending rightwards across the couloir for 20m or so and ascended near the white quartz before taking a rising left line (loose, wet, slimy in places) back towards the watercourse above the imposing wall –  https://what3words.com/remark.buddy.shackles

Here’s a map and some photos of the approximate route I took:

Section 2

This section is less rocky and is mostly heather and grass, it was the least enjoyable part of the route but the ground was well-drained and I moved fairly quickly.

I stayed reasonably close to the watercourse for a few hundred metres on mixed terrain, heading towards the large, obvious buttress ahead of me.

Continuation and Descent

The summit of Glyder Fawr is just under 2k away and there are plenty of options from there.

There is a possible descent northwest of Esgair Felen but it’s steep and leads down onto boggy ground before finding a path which leads down to Gwastadnant. I have always gone up towards Glyder Fawr and descended from there to avoid the boggy area.

What I Think of This Scramble

The first and third sections contain intermittent scrambling over mixed terrain.

The second section lets the route down further.

It’s graded as a 2+ with a 1-star fun rating in my guidebook and that feels right to me.

I’m glad I did the route, even though it was scrappy and ity-bity but with Bryant’s Gully next door, I’m not sure if I would tackle this route again and if I did, I would do so when it’s dry as that box bay was super greasy.

Route Profile

Grade: Graded as a 2+ in the book with a 1-star fun rating.

Suitability for beginners: No.

Navigation: Easy to locate the start but I had a little difficulty following the guidance in the book as the line was broken.

Dangers: As expected from a grade 2+ route with additional issues of this being a rarely ascended route and increased risk of getting lost and loose holds. The box bay (sentry box) was dangerous and therefore I recommend wearing a helmet and having a rope.

Time: Slow going as the terrain is mixed and the route is not obvious. Allow three-ish hours to Glyder Fawr and perhaps a couple more for lunch, the descent and walk back to the car. It took me longer as I was filming.

Popularity: Very very quiet, you may see some climbers near the start of the route and some scramblers from Bryant’s Gully near the end.

Fun rating: 3/10 for me.

My likes: It’s great to try lesser-known routes that are off the beaten track and to gain knowledge of this side of the Glyderau. Some short sections of nice scrambling.

My dislikes: Too much grass and heather bashing in the middle section. THAT greasy box bay.

Nearby scrambles: Bryant’s Gully or cross the Llanberis Pass road and try Crib Goch’s North Ridge or Clogwyn y Person Arete.